PMC Secret Santa

compressor removal

1981 cj7 with 258/4.2.  i'm trying to remove a/c components from the engine compartment.  the compressor is mounted on a bracket on the passenger side of the engine that holds the a/c compressor on the top of the bracket and the alternator on the front of the bracket below the compressor.

how does one remove the compressor from the bracket? does the whole bracket need to be removed in order to remove the compressor?

 

cj7 top roll-on paint job

The day I bought it.....

top off and ready to paint

three coats of rustoleum nutmeg latex paint

finished

who wins?

coolant leak

noticed coolant dripping from between my bellhousing and the dust cover plate but cannot see how the coolant is getting there.  have not been able to locate the source of the leak and i'm wondering if it a head gasket issue or a freeze plug.

i have noticed another leak coming from behind the first port of the exhaust manifold and don;t know if it is a freeze plug or a head gasket failure.  i was hoping that my engine issues would hold out ntil winter time for me to fix them and not miss out on any fall riding time.  

i'm torn about trying to replace the head gasket myself or having the local shop do it.  

one of the reason's i wanted an older model cj was so that i could work on them myself, but i'm not sure if this fix is over my head.  

another afternoon at soccer practicce

head gasket problems

so i might have head gasket problems on the cj.  here's my leak.

rust problem

new money pit

1981 jeep cj7

a few hangs

model 36 project

i recently received a model 36 that  i was told was given by my grandfather to my grandmother's sister.  an identical one was given to my grandmother, who gave it to my mother.  so, at some point, my grandfather bought them and now my mother has one and i have the other.

problem is, the one i got was in bad shape when i got it.  it looked like it had gotten wet.  the finished was damaged and the inner workings have begun to rust. so, i decided to try to reblue it myself.  if that doesnt work, i will take it to bridsong & assoc. for a two-tone desert sand and black teflon finish. 

at any rate, i have been able to remove all the upper mechanisms rather easily. however, i am unsure how to remove the block behind the trigger lever.  can anyone recommend the best way to do this.  i need to remove the block and the triger to mitigate the rusting behind them.

all suggestions are welcome.

the crapper is done...

i thought this project would never be finished. ol' lady wanted tile floor.  she found the tile for $.11/foot, so what could i say? she wanted the old tile and mortar bed removed so new tile would be flush with the wood flooring into the bedroom.  finally got the old tile mortar bed out only to find that slab was not smooth and level and drywall behind the throne had rotten due to getting wet (and therefore woudl not hold new tile baseboards), so, smoothed and leveled the floor, replaced sheetrock, trimmed the cast iron pipe, filled the void around the drain pipe, installed tile flooring and baseboards, installed new closet flange, reinstalled toilet and there you have it.   

repurposed steamer trunk

 so my ol' lady has this old steramer trunk that has been in her family for decades.  it has seen better days and has spent most of it time with us out in the shop collecting dust a rusting out.  well, since we turned the playroom into a movie thatre, ive beenlooking for something to hold extra blankets for sleepovers and what not.  a friend of ours has a large armoire that holds blankets and pillows, but something like that is too big for theatre 506.  so, i cleaned up the steamer trunk, re-finished the metal hardware, added nylon casters, and there you have it, a repurposed steamer trunk perfect for the movie room.   

drain problem

so i removed the toilet and old tile in order to install new ceramic tile flooring.  the old closet flange had rusted thru and was about an inch above the height of the new flooring.  so i removed the old cast iron flange and cut the pipe even with the new floor.  my problem is that i'd like to use a twist-n-set pvc replacement flange instead of a cast iron flange. however, the hole in my slab for the drian pipe to come thru is about 7" diameter and the drain pipe is 4" diameter, so there is a void between the outside wall of the pipe and the inside wall of the slab and i cant secure the flange to tghe floor with crews or bolts. what do i need to do in order to secure it to the floor to keep the toilet from wobbling under the weight of the user?

im thinking that my only option is to use a leaded cast iron flange or fill the void with cement/mortar and glue the flange to it.   

now for the component cabinet/bar

when we bought the house 4 years ago, we found this sideboard buffet in the attic of the shop.  i've been wanting to refinish it and use it in the house somewhere.  so, we decided to use it as the component cabinet will also double as a dry bar.

    

i removed all the dry rotted wood veneer, sanded it, primed it and painted it. here's the halfway cabinet and bar.

i still need to drill out the access holes in the back, install stemware racks in the cabinets and tile the top with leftover granite tile form the kitchen countertops.

getting started....

stacie went to savannah with friend on July 7-10.  so, i removed the ceiling fan, painted the crown and ceiling a dark brown, installed four recessed can lights, and hung blackout curtains over the front window and doorway to the dining room.